11 June 2015

Looking for a builder for a small renovation in Canberra

| wyldfire
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a very small renovation? We have a glass sliding door in our kitchen that goes to the outside and we would like to get it closed off and a bench-high window put in.

We are hoping to get our kitchen redone soon but need to get this sliding door removed before we can think of getting it done.

Also some recommendations for good kitchen people would also be welcome.

Thanks.

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Hi there, not sure if this is too late but these guys are really good, http://www.mastro5design.com.au/
Ask for Pietro, 0413 133 362
They did some similar work on our house a while back. Really good bunch of guys, easy to deal with, reliable, honest and well priced.

Take care. I’ll happily tell you who I used for my ensuite, just so you’d know not to get him, but I think this venue might be too public.
My 3x1M space took FIVE MONTHS ! instead of the promised “1 week, so we’ll allow 2 so no problems”.
After all that time, the heated towel rails still don’t work (wired in upside down), painting not completed, silicone on joints looks like it was done by a kindergartener . . . need I continue?
Just make sure your contract is written, includes a time frame & penalty clauses, no matter how small or large the job and be there watching critically all the time.
Good luck

vintage123 said :

If it was me, this is what I would do.

Determine if the wall is load bearing, and if the correct lintal is in place.
If it is not load bearing, ignore step one. And proceed as follows.
Measure sliding door and investigate if you can purchase same width window.
If so, purchase window yourself.
Remove sliding door, by taking out the screws on the sides, top and bottom and removing the door.
Purchase structural timber from bunnings for internal wall. Decide on brick or alternative for outside.
Once outside wall is done, fit insulation and gyprock internally.
Go to bunnings and purchase kitchen
Pull out existing kitchen yourself, there are plumbing bungs to cap pipes at bunnings.
Install the flat pak kitchen yourself, they just screw together and screw to wall.
Do the splash back yourself with tiles or glass. These are at bunnings.
Have plumber connect new sink and or dishwasher.
Will take you about three days and cost about 7k.
Alternatively get kitchen places to do it for closer to 35k+

I fear such a thing is well outside my ability, I struggled to install a new fan in the bathroom let alone a whole kitchen.

vintage123 said :

If it was me, this is what I would do.

Determine if the wall is load bearing, and if the correct lintal is in place.
If it is not load bearing, ignore step one. And proceed as follows.
Measure sliding door and investigate if you can purchase same width window.
If so, purchase window yourself.
Remove sliding door, by taking out the screws on the sides, top and bottom and removing the door.
Purchase structural timber from bunnings for internal wall. Decide on brick or alternative for outside.
Once outside wall is done, fit insulation and gyprock internally.
Go to bunnings and purchase kitchen
Pull out existing kitchen yourself, there are plumbing bungs to cap pipes at bunnings.
Install the flat pak kitchen yourself, they just screw together and screw to wall.
Do the splash back yourself with tiles or glass. These are at bunnings.
Have plumber connect new sink and or dishwasher.
Will take you about three days and cost about 7k.
Alternatively get kitchen places to do it for closer to 35k+

Any alteration to a structural wall requires an engineer’s approval. It only costs about $150 but it will save you heaps when you sell your home and the purchaser looks for compliance.

Sandman said :

It’s not the Blueboards fault. It’s the apprentices hanging the stuff with high powered screw guns and driving them in so far that they nearly go right through.

If the house is brick then you should try to match it and fill in with brick. It looks like an obvious fill in job otherwise unless the house has other similar design elements.

We used About Kitchens in Fyshwick. I’m sure they won’t be the cheapest quote you’ll get but the designer really knew his stuff when it came to the little details and nuances, and the installer was fast, professional and meticulous.

If the apprentice does not install it correctly then it is the responsibility of the builder and or the certifier to have it reinstalled or replaced. Statutory warranty only applies following correct installation, if this is skipped then both the builders home building insurance and the certifiers business insurance are liable for remediation costs as long as the defect is identified within the statutory period.

If it was me, this is what I would do.

Determine if the wall is load bearing, and if the correct lintal is in place.
If it is not load bearing, ignore step one. And proceed as follows.
Measure sliding door and investigate if you can purchase same width window.
If so, purchase window yourself.
Remove sliding door, by taking out the screws on the sides, top and bottom and removing the door.
Purchase structural timber from bunnings for internal wall. Decide on brick or alternative for outside.
Once outside wall is done, fit insulation and gyprock internally.
Go to bunnings and purchase kitchen
Pull out existing kitchen yourself, there are plumbing bungs to cap pipes at bunnings.
Install the flat pak kitchen yourself, they just screw together and screw to wall.
Do the splash back yourself with tiles or glass. These are at bunnings.
Have plumber connect new sink and or dishwasher.
Will take you about three days and cost about 7k.
Alternatively get kitchen places to do it for closer to 35k+

It’s not the Blueboards fault. It’s the apprentices hanging the stuff with high powered screw guns and driving them in so far that they nearly go right through.

If the house is brick then you should try to match it and fill in with brick. It looks like an obvious fill in job otherwise unless the house has other similar design elements.

We used About Kitchens in Fyshwick. I’m sure they won’t be the cheapest quote you’ll get but the designer really knew his stuff when it came to the little details and nuances, and the installer was fast, professional and meticulous.

Blueboard and hebel require additional steps upon installation to maintain quality and integrity. If installed correctly they are long lasting good looking products. Challenge is to find someone who knows what they are doing and who don’t skim on quality for the sake of saving a few bucks. I have built a house out of hebel power panels as well as a garage out of blueboard. Both still look new 20 years on.

Exin panels are also a good product. I have built a house out of these also. As I have said before, there are tons of product out there that are cost effective building solutions. But hey some keep flogging the shipping containers so I should just let it be.

dungfungus said :

vintage123 said :

rubaiyat said :

dungfungus said :

Whatever you do, don’t allow the chosen builder to use that “blueboard” cladding.
It starts to de-laminate and expel the nails/screws within 12 months.
How the “authorities” allow the stuff to be sold mystifies me.

What do you mean by “blueboard”? The only reference I can find to that is a form of quickset Gyprock board used in the States.

http://www.jbcementrendering.com.au/images/blueboard.jpg

http://www.jameshardie.com.au/products/external-cladding/hardietex-system/

Surprised someone who has renovated a lot of homes in Canberra hasn’t heard of blueboard.
Half of Gungahlin and Wright has the stuff deteriorating already.
An example of the type of product can be found at this link:
http://www.bunnings.com.au/bgc-2440-x-1200-x-7-5mm-2-93sqm-duratex-blueboard_p0710117

May be a case of willful blindness. Never done anything in Gungahlin or Wright.

Thanks for the heads up.

vintage123 said :

rubaiyat said :

dungfungus said :

Whatever you do, don’t allow the chosen builder to use that “blueboard” cladding.
It starts to de-laminate and expel the nails/screws within 12 months.
How the “authorities” allow the stuff to be sold mystifies me.

What do you mean by “blueboard”? The only reference I can find to that is a form of quickset Gyprock board used in the States.

http://www.jbcementrendering.com.au/images/blueboard.jpg

http://www.jameshardie.com.au/products/external-cladding/hardietex-system/

Surprised someone who has renovated a lot of homes in Canberra hasn’t heard of blueboard.
Half of Gungahlin and Wright has the stuff deteriorating already.
An example of the type of product can be found at this link:
http://www.bunnings.com.au/bgc-2440-x-1200-x-7-5mm-2-93sqm-duratex-blueboard_p0710117

rubaiyat said :

dungfungus said :

Whatever you do, don’t allow the chosen builder to use that “blueboard” cladding.
It starts to de-laminate and expel the nails/screws within 12 months.
How the “authorities” allow the stuff to be sold mystifies me.

What do you mean by “blueboard”? The only reference I can find to that is a form of quickset Gyprock board used in the States.

http://www.jbcementrendering.com.au/images/blueboard.jpg

http://www.jameshardie.com.au/products/external-cladding/hardietex-system/

Can’t help with the door-to-window conversion, however I will recommend Kitchen Link for the kitchen refurb. I couldn’t be more impressed with the job they did at my place, especially considering the room wasn’t very square or level. The fit and finish was top quality.

wyldfire said :

dungfungus said :

Whatever you do, don’t allow the chosen builder to use that “blueboard” cladding.
It starts to de-laminate and expel the nails/screws within 12 months.
How the “authorities” allow the stuff to be sold mystifies me.

I was hoping for solution that didn’t require rebricking as I was confident that was going to significantly more expensive than the “blueboard”

Try Hebel cladding.

dungfungus said :

Whatever you do, don’t allow the chosen builder to use that “blueboard” cladding.
It starts to de-laminate and expel the nails/screws within 12 months.
How the “authorities” allow the stuff to be sold mystifies me.

I was hoping for solution that didn’t require rebricking as I was confident that was going to significantly more expensive than the “blueboard”

dungfungus said :

Whatever you do, don’t allow the chosen builder to use that “blueboard” cladding.
It starts to de-laminate and expel the nails/screws within 12 months.
How the “authorities” allow the stuff to be sold mystifies me.

What do you mean by “blueboard”? The only reference I can find to that is a form of quickset Gyprock board used in the States.

Whatever you do, don’t allow the chosen builder to use that “blueboard” cladding.
It starts to de-laminate and expel the nails/screws within 12 months.
How the “authorities” allow the stuff to be sold mystifies me.

I’d just get the kitchen people to do it – if you’re doing the kitchen anyway. The guys that did my kitchen – Ray Browne Joinery – ended up doing a fair bit of remodelling as part of the job. If they can’t do it then they’ll know someone who can.

The guys that did my bathroom – Creating Impressions – ended up tearing down walls and installing doors and windows in parts of the house completely unrelated to the bathroom! They did use a 3rd party to design and install windows.

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