22 July 2024

Parisian-style wine 'cave' in Kingston up for Gourmet Traveller's Wine Bar of the Year

| Lucy Ridge
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Brett stands next to the red door.

Brett Nebauer is the bar manager at 11e Cave, Onzieme. Photo: Lucy Ridge.

Gourmet Traveller‘s national restaurant award finalists have been announced. Included in the prestigious shortlist is Canberra’s own 11e Cave, which has been listed as a finalist in the Wine Bar of the Year category.

They welcomed the news in their own, inimitable way: “ok, seriously, slap us with a wet fish – our tiny little bar has been nominated for best wine bar in @gourmettraveller‘s 2025 restaurant awards. SLAP US!!”

The teeny, ‘tiny’ wine bar behind an unassuming red door in Kingston opened in mid-June 2022 below restaurant Onzieme. Owner Louis Couttoupes wanted to create a Parisian-style wine bar – known in France as a cave – as soon as he saw the grungy-chic storage cellar.

He explained that as the restaurant picks up speed and gains more recognition, they’ve been trying to shine a light on the underground bar as well.

“We want to make sure people see the cave as its own venue, with a distinct personality,” Louis told Region.

Bearded man in front of wine shelf

Onzieme chef and owner Louis Couttoupes. Photo: Lean Timms.

The other wine bars in the running for 2024’s Wine Bar of the Year include Bar Olo in Melbourne, Havilah in Launceston, Poly in Sydney, Otherness in Barossa Valley and South West Wine Shop in Busselton, WA.

It’s stiff competition, but the stiff drinks at 11e Cave are up to the challenge, in no small part thanks to the stewardship of bar manager Brett Nebauer.

“We go and visit these other bars, so to be listed alongside them feels great. We’re ecstatic even to get a nomination,” Brett told Region.

“Any nomination or award has an instant impact in terms of people hearing about you and more people coming in to give us a try.”

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Onzieme was also awarded Best ACT Restaurant in the 2023 awards. Wine Bar of the Year in 2023 went to Adelaide’s Good Gilbert.

The wine list at 11e Cave has a solid selection of local Canberra region options, as well as some more esoteric varieties from interstate and overseas. The cocktails list is entirely made up of Brett’s creations, whether an exciting take on a classic drink or an entirely new creation.

He often works in tandem with the kitchen upstairs to make use of scraps and offcuts. For example, during stone fruit season, the presentable ‘cheeks’ of Gollion Farm’s blood plums make it onto plates, and the stones with leftover flesh are macerated into wine or neutral spirits to make digestif style drinks like the Ghetto Amaretto.

Brett makes a cocktail.

Brett was the international runner-up for the 2024 Hayman’s Gin original gin cocktail competition. Photo: Lucy Ridge.

Brett is no stranger to awards: he was recently chosen as the international runner-up in the 2024 Hayman’s Gin original gin cocktail competition with his sloe scarlet cocktail.

“I like entering competitions like this because it’s a very different learning curve,” Brett said.

“It encourages you to push yourself, think outside the box and it’s a lot of fun.”

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Gourmet Traveller editor Joanna Hunkin noted the challenges faced by the industry and the ongoing importance of the awards.

“There is no question 2024 is proving a tough year for hospitality, with many restaurateurs forced to make difficult decisions. At the same time, there are still plenty of success stories and new experiences to discover. The awards are here to remind Australians of the exceptional dining on offer across the country and to celebrate the joy of dining out.”

Print on a wall with mirrors featuring a wine glass on vinyl record.

The wine list at 11e Cave has a solid selection of local Canberra region options, as well as some more esoteric varieties from interstate and overseas. Photo: Lucy Ridge.

The Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards were established in 1980 and are judged by a panel of independent reviewers. Each restaurant is judged on its overall dining experience, including its food and drink offering, ambience, service and setting. It is one of the only nationally judged hospitality awards in Australia.

The winners of the awards will be announced on 19 August at iconic Sydney restaurant Catalina, which will celebrate its 30th anniversary in September. The winners and a guide to Australia’s top 95 restaurants will feature in the September issue of Gourmet Traveller.

11e Cave is located under Onzieme on the corner of Eyre and Kennedy Streets in Kingston. It’s open from 5:30 pm till late Tuesday to Saturday. Walk-ins only.

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