Rasam is entirely vegetarian/vegan. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
Rasam, promising authentic South Indian food, has opened in Childers Street. It’s a home-style eatery that pays homage to the region’s best-loved staple, idli, which is held in even higher esteem than the dosa.
Entirely vegetarian/vegan, with an extensive range of gluten-free options, Rasam also serves up the sambar of your dreams, no joke. More on that later. The restaurant is a labour of love between three friends, co-owner Ranga says.
Situated right next to ANU’s Uni Lodge, Rasam’s interior is populated with heavy wooden tables and brightened with yellow and orange garlands.
Three men sit inside the cosiest corner, deep in the back of the space. They tell me how much they love the rich and fulsome sambar as it’s not thin or watery like some South Indian places serve up.
From talking to Ranga and learning of his cooking experiences, catering in temples and during flood aid, I have come to understand that he is someone who can create magical-tasting meals from the most basic ingredients.
Ranga says South Indian meals centre around rasam, sambar and buttermilk, and idli.
Idli is a plump, fermented disc. Photo: Kazuri Photography
I am excited to eat, and I know I want to get my tastebuds into most of the dishes on the menu.
A bowl of delicate rasam soup arrives first – a warmly spiced tomato, coconut and tamarind broth. Using my spoon gives way to just slurping it straight out of the bowl. It is just that yummy.
Next comes the sambar, and this has to be my favourite sambar ever. Rich and fragrant, it’s the first time I have finished a bowl of sambar in a restaurant. I usually find the sambar and accompanying chutneys too acerbic, bitter and spicy hot.
Speaking of chutneys, this is also the first time I have also cleaned my plate of chutney in a South Indian restaurant. The coconut chutney is smooth and refreshing. The tomato chutney packs so much lush flavour into its rich red mouthfuls I can’t get enough of it.
The adored idli arrives on a potato masala–filled dosa. A plump, fermented disc, it is made from the same batter as the dosa but steamed.
More chutneys accompany these carbs, as does the fabulous sambar.
I begin breaking the idli apart, dipping it into everything, but Ranga tells me that in South India, they pour the sambar over the idli/dosa, so when in South India … And I eat it all, scooping up every last drop of sambar and chutney.
My potato-stuffed dosa tastes almost like it has had cheese fried into it. Sublime is an understatement. Dosa is one of my favourite things to eat and these have me in raptures.
I also eat more than one savoury lentil-battered doughnut – crispy and golden with a dense, tender filling, run through with coriander and curry leaves.
Rasam’s bajias are deep-fried crunchy batter encasing tender mild chillies. They taste fantastic. I dip them in the sauces and could have gone with two more. Definitely order these. The chillies are not spicy hot; they’re more like capsicum.
Bajias are deep-fried crunchy batter encasing tender mild chillies. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
I have cleared every portion of every plate and savoured each mouthful. It has to be the most food I have tucked away in a single sitting ever.
Is there room for South Indian filter coffee? You betcha. A caffeinated beverage specific to South India, this uniquely filtered coffee is a little cup of sweet, milky coffee topped by an impressive head of tiny frothing bubbles.
It reminds me of the coffee my dad would make the child Michelle on Sunday mornings. Comforting and scrumptious.
South Indian filter coffee Photo: Kazuri Photography.
Rasam is a must-experience taste sensation.
An all-you-can-eat Thali/Traditional Festival Lunch is available at lunchtime on Saturday and Sunday from 12 pm to 2 pm. Expect a different menu every weekend, bringing some of the traditional dishes to Canberra regularly.
‘Satwik’ (no onion/no garlic) options feature on the menu too.
Rasam is located at Shop 6/35 Childers St, right near ANU. Follow Rasam on Facebook and Instagram. Rasam caters for most events. Visit Rasam for opening hours.
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