The dosa is the world’s greatest culinary invention, in my opinion.
The South Indian delicacy is a thin, savoury crepe made from a fermented batter of ground rice and lentils, generally made as a giant cylinder shape. The most common type is a masala dosa, which is filled with a spicy potato and onion-based mix and served alongside a vegetable stew called sambar and chutney, a savoury condiment made from slow-cooked fruits or vegetables, vinegar and spices.
The term comes from the Indian word dosha, meaning evil or vice. Legend has it the dish was invented by a renegade cook who wanted to rebel against his religion, which prohibited all alcohol. In an attempt to get high, he tried to ferment his own booze using rice. When he failed, he poured the mixture he created onto a hot pan and spread it around, turning it into a crepe-like meal.
It used to be hard to find this guilty pleasure in Canberra, as most Indian restaurants only served the heavy meat and dairy-based curries found in the north of the country.
South Indian food is completely different, offering lighter rice and lentil-based dishes that are mostly vegetarian.
Venues serving dosa – a breakfast food on the subcontinent – have mushroomed across the ACT this past decade. The price ranges from $12 to $23, depending on the filling. Here is my verdict on three three I’ve found particularly tasty.
Dosa Hut in Garema Place offers 32 different types of dosa. In addition to the traditional masala dosa, you can also fill your crepe with paneer (Indian white cheese), lamb, deep-fried chicken, ghee and many other choices.
There’s also the option of having it plain with nothing inside, your crepe made with an onion embedded in the batter or a dessert dosa filled with chocolate, sprinkled with cashew nuts and icing sugar and/or covered in ice cream.
That’s a little too sweet for me. My personal favourite is the giant 70 cm masala dosa, which is so long it almost hangs off the table. It’s thinner and crispier than a more conventional dosa and not as filling as it looks. My recommended drink pairing is an Indian Kingfisher beer.
The great thing about Canberra’s expanding culinary scene is that you no longer have to travel to the city to sample exotic foods. There are plenty of dosa places south of Manuka, including Bharat International in Phillip.
The Indian grocery store also sells traditional dresses such as sarees and salwar kameez. It includes a cafeteria-like area where you can order a dosa and eat it (you could also order it as a takeaway, but you may end up with chutney all over your car seats).
Bharat International offers you seven types of dosa – plain, masala, onion, butter, paneer, tandoori chicken and chocolate. Though not quite as big or crispy as what’s on offer at the Dosa Hut, portion sizes are still generous, and the quality is high.
It’s best not to buy your saree before you eat, as you may not fit into it after your meal, especially if you indulge in the huge range of Indian sweets also available.
The northside of the city doesn’t miss out – with Sankalp Restaurant in Belconnen also having a go at dosas. Like most South Indian restaurants on the subcontinent, this one is pure vegetarian, so you won’t be getting any lamb mince or deep-fried chicken inside your crepe.
But you can order the Mysore dosa, which is similar to the masala dosa but includes a red paste of fried onions, red chillies and tomatoes, as well as fresh coconut.
Sankalp also serves a Nilgiri dosa, which is mint flavoured, and something called the super paper dosa, which is extra thin and crispy.
This Belconnen eatery gives you a more authentic Indian-style taste of dosa, with offerings that are both filling and tasty.
Where’s the best dosa you’ve had in Canberra? Let us know in the comments.