The Mediterranean menu features focaccia baked daily. Photo: Ashley St George, Pew Pew Studio.
The restaurant at Murrumbateman winery Shaw Estate has undergone renovations with new owners looking to zhuzh up what has become a favourite local cellar door. The new restaurant has a focus on Mediterranean flavours and local produce, and the former Olleyville restaurant has become a dedicated functions space.
DOMA Hotel Group now has a stake in the business, and the glamour of the hotel biz is certainly apparent in the newly redecorated space. High ceilings look out over a dam and new vine plantings (which will become more scenic as they grow). Although the space is decked out in neutral colours, the use of texture provides endless variety with tiles, trimmings and artistic light fittings.
While the DOMA group will be running operations, previous owner Graeme Shaw is still involved and will continue to lead Shaw’s winemaking.
“The winemaking operation will continue uninterrupted with the assistance of Graeme and his existing team, but bolstered with the knowledge and input of the new owners,” Jure Domazet, the DOMA group managing director told Region.
“This will develop into the release of new varieties and an increase in the volumes produced by the winery. However, we will also be collaborating with local and national wineries to have cellar door takeovers, allowing our guests to experience a larger range of wines in our beautiful, newly refurbished cellar door.”
Neutral shades give the room a modern feel, with light fittings and textured surfaces cleverly adding interest. Photo: Ashley St George, Pew Pew Studio.
Visiting ahead of their reopening, I was treated to a banquet of dishes from the menu, which was developed by Canberra chef Adam Hazelton, formerly of Miss Van’s. He’s been busily forming relationships with local producers like La Barre Olives to include on the menu. The first iteration is squarely Italian, but he told Region that they will move into other parts of the Mediterranean as they develop and get comfortable in the space.
The impressive kitchen will also cater for functions, so the space is generous. Most of the burners are induction, but there is also an impressive wood-fired grill that plays a starring role in dishes like the smokey Cauliflower Steak and charred Bistecca Fiorentina (what you and I would call a big old T-bone steak).
The wood-fired grill cooks up a mean Bistecca Fiorentina. Photo: Ashley St George, Pew Pew Studio.
Smokey flavours also permeate the Tuscan broad bean dip with marjoram, which starts our meal. It’s creamy, smokey, and oh-so-moreish when mopped up with pillowy soft focaccia. White anchovy crostoli comes next with pickled fennel and lemon oil. It’s a very satisfying small bite of perfectly crispy fried pastry, and it pairs beautifully with the Shaw Estate sparkling cuvee.
House-made pasta follows: a seafood linguine and zesty and tender lamb mafaldine (ruffled ribbons of pasta). I personally wouldn’t have added the cheese to the seafood pasta, as it slightly overpowered the delicate flavours, but the lamb was my standout dish of the day.
The grilled cauliflower steak was magnificent, sitting in a creamy cauliflower puree with a hint of smoke and plenty of punch from a herby gremolata and salty capers. We also enjoyed the side dish of shaved cabbage with pieces of date and walnut scattered throughout, which paired well with the grilled flank steak and a big glass of Pinot Noir.
All the desserts at Shaw Estate Restaurant are delicious, like this rich tiramisu. Photo: Ashley St George, Pew Pew Studio.
We were lucky enough to try three desserts, which were all worth saving room for. Traditional tiramisu popped with chunks of chocolate nibs scattered across the plate, and chunks of tart rhubarb tempered a sweet, creamy pannacotta. But it was a traditional cannoli filled with a zesty lemon ricotta and pistachios that won my heart.
The surroundings feel a bit posh, but at the heart of the new cellar door is honest-to-goodness food cooked with passion and attention to detail.
Shaw Estate Restaurant and Cellar Door is located at 34 Isabel Drive, Murrumbateman. They are open from 11 am to 5 pm, Thursday to Sunday. Guests will receive a complimentary cocktail on arrival until 16 April. Follow Shaw Estate on Facebook or Instagram.
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