18 June 2024

Tuckshop Tamada: the sumptuous Thai grab-and-go that is winning over the tastebuds of Canberra

| Michelle Taylor
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three women in a kitchen

Three generations of restaurant experience. Photo: Kazuri Photography.

If you want to know what three generations of restaurant experience tastes like, drop into Canberra’s brand new and most delicious hole-in-the-wall Tuckshop Tamada.

“Our family has been in the food business for a really long time,” co-owner Nat Yota says.

“My grandma opened one of Canberra’s first Thai restaurants when she migrated from Thailand. Later, my parents ran their restaurant in Woden until my father passed away. And now Tuckshop Tamada is a small family venture between my mum, my brother and I.”

On the day I pop in to see and to taste, Nat, her mum, Sou Yota, and grandma, Nith, are all there.

Tuckshop Tamada’s concept is grab and go: good quality, quick food that comes at a good price point. Only two menu items are priced over $15, while $10 will get you five enoki mushroom cakes, three satay sticks or three pork and prawn cakes.

Tuckshop Tamada deliciousness. Photo: Kazuri Photography.

Most of the menu staples, the hearty curries and Thai salads take inspiration from Nat’s grandma’s original restaurant. Nat points out Tamada’s head chef, Num Jeamwattanasirikit, is actually the original chef of 20 years from her parent’s restaurant!

I order takeaway for tonight’s dinner: a pumpkin curry, beef brisket massaman and pork chilli basil fried egg, each comes with a serving of fluffy fragrant rice and pad Thai. My food is ready about 7 minutes later.

Tamada’s pumpkin curry is not your run-of-the-mill variety. Packed with freshness and herbs, it leaves your tastebuds humming gently with the mild buzz of chilli. Tender cubes of pumpkin and green beans cooked with fresh Thai basil and curry paste-infused coconut milk.

Pumpkin curry, packed with freshness and herbs. Photo: Kazuri Photography.

Chef Num makes the beef brisket massaman curry, as the name states, with brisket (my favourite cut of beef).

As you can imagine, the cubes of tender beef have gorgeous, tenderising threads of fat running through. That distinct brisket flavour puts its stamp all over the massaman curry sauce ingredients, adding complexity to this comfort food dish. I enjoy the flavoursome meat and how luxurious its sauce is.

The pork chilli basil fried egg takes the traditional Thai dish and tweaks it with pork two ways. Pork mince stir-fried with loads of chilli, onion, garlic and basil. Strips of pork belly and a perfectly fried egg, soft in the middle and crispy on the edges, top the dish.

Cubes of tender beef have gorgeous, tenderising threads of fat running through. Photo: Kazuri Photography.

The pad Thai noodles are comforting and moreish. Flat noodles with grilled prawn, tender chicken and cubes of fried egg are coated with the traditional pad Thai sauce that tastes of fish sauce, oyster sauce, brown sugar and tamarind. Fresh bean sprouts, chopped peanuts and lime garnish the bowl. Tasty!

Nith pushes a Thai milk tea into my hand, so I happily take a few sips as I leave. The tea is icy and refreshing, not overly sweet. Made on a base of house-brewed black tea, it has the traditional orange hue from the addition of spices.

“We have just started some weekly specials,” Nat says.

“At the moment, we have pad Thai, beef noodle soup, a prawn chicken chilli basil stir-fry and a laksa.”

Whether for your work lunch or something delicious to take home for dinner, Tuckshop Tamada is a superb option.

Tuckshop Tamada is located at 1 Bible Lane in Civic. It is open weekdays from 11 am to 2:30 pm and opens at 11:30 on Saturday. Follow Tuckshop Tamada on Instagram to see their latest specials.

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