8 July 2024

Celebrated chef returns to the nation's capital

| Dione David
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Josh Smith-Thirkell in a kitchen

Josh Smith-Thirkell has returned as executive chef at QT Canberra. Photo: QT.

From perfectly poached winter fruits to the mastery of Cape Grim beef, a new appointment at an award-winning Canberra restaurant has injected a buzz of excitement into the capital’s dining scene.

Josh Smith-Thirkell has stepped in as executive chef of QT Canberra, signalling a return to the EVT Group after establishing his career across the EVT portfolio from 2013 to 2022, including stints at QT Sydney, as sous chef role at QT Canberra and opening QT Queenstown in New Zealand.

It’s for good reason that he can’t stay away.

“There’s a lot of evolution and opportunity at QT Canberra. Seasonal changing menus keep things exciting, but there are all sorts of upgrades and new things in the pipeline,” he says.

“It’s very much a ‘watch this space’ place, and I want to be a part of that.”

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Josh says the colder months are a great time to take the helm at QT Canberra’s signature restaurant, Capitol Bar & Grill, and oversee the hotel’s private dining and events catering.

“Winter in Canberra is a lovely time for food,” Josh says.

“The truffles we’re getting from Frank at Hidden Valley Farms are beautiful and some of the cheeses coming out of this area are amazing. We’re getting gorgeous winter fruits from an orchard out in Piallago.”

The restaurant showcases local produce of the highest quality as the centrepiece for rustic, flavourful dishes, but even as “approachable” additions join the menu, award-winning wines and prime-cut steaks continue to headline.

New winter dishes include Cypriot halloumi with figs from Wallaroo, fennel pollen and honey from QT Canberra’s very own rooftop, and lasagne made with pork and veal bologna, hand-rolled pasta, porcini cream and Parmigiana Reggiano.

Lighter mains include wood-fired kohlrabi served with house ricotta, salsa verde, garlic chips and honey vinaigrette and Ulladulla swordfish served with green goddess sauce, Padron de Peppers, rocket and lemon.

Mouth-watering desserts include the poached winter fruit crumble served warm with panettone crumb and Montenegro custard, and Basque cheesecake served with lemon curd, lemon sorbet and candied pine nuts.

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As he reaches for “nostalgic home-style comfort”, Josh says diners can expect an approachable elegance to every dish that honours the integrity, flavour and form of its ingredients.

“From proteins, dishes with an Italian touch including pasta and antipasto, to majestic Murrumbateman mushrooms, Capitol Bar & Grill offers rustic, flavourful dining where we honour tradition without being traditional,” he says.

“It’s about cooking food people enjoy eating, three times a week if they want … I want everyone to feel at home. That’s what I’m passionate about.”

QT Canberra General Manager Stephen Hollow says the QT team is “delighted” to have Josh back with EVT and QT Canberra.

“Josh’s return is a testament to our commitment to culinary excellence and providing guests with an exceptional dining experience,” he says.

“His expertise will continue to elevate our offering for our guests,” he says.

Located within QT Canberra, Capitol Bar & Grill is open for dinner from Tuesday to Saturday, and the bar is open seven days a week from 12 pm until late. Book here.

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