27 June 2024

End of an era as Emperor Court Chinese Restaurant closes

| Lucy Ridge
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Green tiles on red wall with signage reading 'Emperor Court Chinese Restaurant' and Chinese characters.

The iconic facade of Emperor Court Chinese Restaurant could be a thing of the past. Photo: Lucy Ridge.

After 36 years of serving food in Yarralumla, the Ho family is closing the doors at Emperor Court Chinese Restaurant.

Stanley and Agnes Ho took over the space in 1988, and they believe they are the second oldest, continuously family-owned Chinese restaurant in Canberra, behind Happy’s in Garema Place.

The Ho family raised their children Anita and Leslie in the restaurant, with both kids taking turns managing the space when they got older. Region spoke with Anita Ho who describes what a special place it is.

“I have a lot of memories with customers who have been coming back for such a long time,” she explained.

“So we’ll definitely miss everybody. It’s bittersweet that the restaurant won’t be here anymore.”

Trio stands in front of bar.

Anita Ho, Stanley Ho and longtime staff member Shella. Photo: Lucy Ridge.

After well over 30 years in the business, Agnes and Stanley will be taking a well-earned break. Anita explained that her parents are getting older, and they felt that the time was right to finish up. Business has been much harder following COVID and it’s been hard to find staff.

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With its iconic red and green entrance and retro interior, Emperor Court is a classic example of a suburban Chinese Australian restaurant. These institutions bring back fond memories of sweet and sour pork, fried rice and lemon chicken. For many Anglo and European Australians, these restaurants were an introduction to a whole new world of Asian cuisine. In more recent years, people from other cultures have brought their food to Canberra as well.

“I think suburban restaurants are changing,” Anita said.

“You see a lot of other cuisines now, like Korean, Japanese and Indian. There are so many choices available now, which is great. But there’s only a handful of these Chinese restaurants with long histories left.”

Red menu with golden dragon on restaurant table.

There aren’t many long-running suburban Chinese restaurants left. Photo: Lucy Ridge.

Over time, the preferences of customers have changed from sweet and sour pork – what Anita laughingly calls ‘white people Chinese food’ – to dishes like shantung chicken. But Stanley’s cooking has kept people coming back for more.

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While Yarralumla shops will lose some history once Emperor Court closes, there’s a little bit of history repeating around the corner.

A new restaurant called Mínima is opening at the shops in July. Mínima is a new venue by Benn and Mork Ratanakosol (formerly of Morks), whose parents used to run a Thai restaurant at Yarralumla shops many years ago. Anita says when they were all kids, she and her brother Leslie would play with Benn and Mork while their parents were busy at the two restaurants.

Older man stands with folded arms in from of bar with stylised Chinese decorations.

Stanley Ho has been the owner and chef at the restaurant for 36 years. Photo: Lucy Ridge.

While the Ho family is sorry to be saying goodbye, they wanted to take the opportunity to thank all the customers who have supported them over the years, from those who drop in occasionally to others who have been coming back for years.

“The family would love to thank all our patrons. We really appreciate and value their support: we wouldn’t have been here for so long without you all.”

Emperor Court Chinese Restaurant will close for the last time on Sunday, 30 June.

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This is sad news, especially noting many other suburban asian restaurants which have closed down in the last year or two (I was especially sad to see the Beijing in Hawker quietly disappear also).

Best wishes to the Ho family, and I hope their next adventures are good ones.

George Hastings12:51 pm 28 Jun 24

Soon Aussies will be left with KFC and McDonalds as options

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