27 September 2024

Five Minutes with Gavin Chan, Happy's Chinese Restaurant

| Lucy Ridge
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Man stir frying in a kitchen

Gavin Chan, owner of Happy’s Chinese Restaurant in Civic. Photo: Botanist Creative.

Who are you?

Gavin Chan. I am the third-generation owner of Happy’s Chinese Restaurant. I grew up in hospitality and I’m still doing it all these years later!

Tell me about Happy’s

It’s the oldest Chinese restaurant in Canberra. We’re very fortunate to still be going and to still have so many loyal customers. Some have been coming for as many generations as we’ve been running it.

How did you get involved in the hospitality industry?

I was forced! Working in the family business wasn’t by choice at first, but I came back by choice. When I moved away, I was managing a Coles supermarket, and I really enjoyed that job. I got to interact with lots of people. I think when you’re young, you want to get away from the big smoke, but it was Canberra that brought us back. I wanted my kids to grow up like I did.

Happy's Restaurant sign

The Happy’s Restaurant sign is a landmark in Garema Place. Photo: Happy’s.

What is your food philosophy?

It’s got to be consistent. Every time someone comes into the restaurant, I want to be serving them good quality food. It should be consistently good every single time.

What is your go-to ingredient when cooking?

At Happy’s we make a master stock from chicken bones boiled in water for 16 hours. And even at home, I have to use it: it makes everything taste one hundred times better. It’s like natural MSG!

What’s an underrated Canberra venue that you love?

The Charcoal Rooster on Lowanna Street in Braddon. It’s an old-style takeaway shop, and it’s on the way home for me, so I often stop by for a schnitzel burger.

A photo of chef Hao Chen from Raku

Chef Hao Chen, Raku. Photo: Michelle Kroll.

Who do you admire in the Canberra food scene?

Chef Hao at Raku. I really admire how he’s taken that place and made it internationally renowned. It’s just always great, and everything is always fresh. That’s the sort of place I love.

Where’s the best place for a drink in Canberra?

Hippo Bar, upstairs from Happy’s! It’s almost like a partnership for us: people will come to Happy’s for a meal and then head upstairs for a drink.

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Who is your dream dinner party guest, and what would you make them?

Gordon Ramsay. I love the way that he’s so out there with his language – I wish I could swear like him sometimes! – and how successful he is. I’d cook him something we used to eat all the time when we were kids: simple, home-cooked tomato and egg.

What is your current food obsession?

I’m really enjoying pasta at the moment. I get whole prawns, take the shell off and make a little prawn stock with the heads and shell and then mix that through pasta with tomato and cream. I’ve been making it once a week: the kids are getting sick of it!

Hand grabs a slice of cake from cabinet.

Gavin likes the pear tarts at Via Dolce Pasticceria. Photo: Via Dolce Pasticceria.

What’s the best thing you ate this week?

A chicken schnitzel that my wife made me. I love a schnitzel.

Where do you go for a sweet treat?

Via Dolce in the city. I can’t get enough of their pear tarts and cakes.

What’s a food that reminds you of your childhood?

As kids, we used to cook eggs for ourselves all the time because Mum and Dad were always working. We didn’t want to clean up so we’d fry up some eggs with soy sauce and rice. Even now, I still enjoy it, but these days, I’ll add a bit of XO sauce and have something else on the side.

What’s a normal breakfast for you?

I’m not a big breakfast person; I’d rather get a few more minutes of sleep!

Alpha Fresh food truck

Break up with your supermarket. Photo: Alpha Fresh.

Where do you shop for groceries?

I get my fresh stuff delivered to my door from Alpha Fresh. I love how convenient and local it is.

When you can’t be bothered to cook for yourself, where do you go and what do you eat?

I go to the Dickson Taphouse and usually get myself a pork or chicken schnitzel. We don’t eat very formally as a family, we just put everything in the middle and dig in.

READ ALSO Five Minutes with Stella Wiedemeyer, Bar Rochford

Where are you travelling next?

We’re going to Japan in December. We just take two weeks off every year, and we always really look forward to it and try to travel somewhere. The kids are looking forward to the kewpie mayonnaise factory, don’t ask me why but that’s where they want to go! But I’m just going to Japan to eat the panko-crumb schnitzels.

Tell me something you love about living in Canberra.

I love the open spaces. I love the way the schools are set up here – you feel so part of it. It’s a bit like a country town. Sydney is such a rat race, but in Canberra, people slow down and have a chat.

What TV show are you watching right now?

I’ve been watching The Rookie. I’m a sucker for a police drama.

An easy one to finish – what’s your go-to coffee order?

Flat white, double shot, small.

Happy’s Chinese Restaurant is located in Garema Place. Follow them on Facebook or Instagram.

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Ah, Happy memories! When I came to Canberra as an undergraduate Happy’s was indeed the only Chinese restaurant in Canberra, which was lucky for Canberra since most Australian towns and cities, the state capitals excepted, had none at all in those days. A luxurious “date” for my wife-to-be and me was an evening meal at Happy’s, with sweet-and-sour pork for me and chicken and black-bean source for she! And how excellent that Happy’s is still there!

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