Five Minutes with Lucy Holm, Sandoochie

Who are you?

I’m Lucy Holm, owner and chef at Sandoochie.

Tell me about Sandoochie.

Sandoochie is a sandwich store located in the city. We do four different sandwiches – dooches – with a menu that changes pretty much weekly so it reflects seasonality.

How did you get involved in the hospitality industry?

I went to ANU to do an Arts degree but I realised I really just like cooking. After making average stroganoff for a school camp, I got a job at a cafe and then ended up in restaurants.

If you weren’t in hospitality, what would you be doing instead?

This was it, really; I always wanted to cook. Maybe I’d be a gardener or real estate agent – I could sell ice to Eskimos!

What is your food philosophy?

Make it tasty. It doesn’t have to have any rules.

What’s an underrated Canberra venue that you love?

Flavours of Jiangnan. I get the tomato and egg on rice and the boiled pork dumplings. Also, Delhi to Canberra in Melba is a really good local Indian restaurant with lovely people.

Who do you admire in the Canberra food scene?

Sean McConnell. I don’t think I could have done Sandoochie without working with him at rebel rebel. His menus are very cohesive, intelligent, seasonal, and not extravagant but always delicious.

I also have to shout out Lachie from Under Bakery, the best bakery in Canberra. His light rye is really special, and I like all their savoury danishes.

Where’s the best place to have a drink in Canberra?

I love Bar Rochford or the George Harcourt out at Gold Greek, which is a great place to sit by the fire with a beer.

Who is your dream dinner party guest, and what would you make them?

Kylie Kwong: I love her. I had a fantastic moment going to Billy Kwong and experiencing what she was doing with Australian ingredients and Chinese flavours. She wasn’t faking it, and the lemon aspen and spanner crab was life-changing. And she’s so powerful when you watch her behind the pass. I kind of want to be her.

I reckon I’d make her a really wholesome roast chook with chicken from the markets, maybe even steam it and deep fry it, serve it with a mandarin dressing, good spuds and a good salad. But I’d be super stressed the whole time!

What is your current food obsession?

I’ve been cooking a Kylie Kwong recipe a lot lately. It’s white fish like blue eye cod or snapper, steamed in Shaoxing cooking wine and finished with hot oil and julienne ginger. It looks stunning, but it’s a really easy weeknight meal.

What’s a food that reminds you of your childhood?

Ham and butter sandwiches with white bread. It was a staple in the lunchbox, along with the little box of sultanas that I would throw out or trade for something.

When you can’t be bothered to cook for yourself, where do you go and what do you eat?

I live in Cook, so I would visit To All My Friends for a beer and a pizza. Or Mee Sushi – Tan and Sophie are so lovely, and it’s just an institution.

I also love Miss Van’s as a place to go as a solo diner. Just get an oyster, a glass of wine and something delicious wrapped in lettuce.

Where are you travelling next?

I’m going to Georgia with my partner. We’ll go to Tbilisi and then check out some wineries. I’m looking for recommendations at the moment from friends who know more about wine than I do. It’s one of the oldest winemaking regions in the world.

Tell me something you love about living in Canberra.

I like cold, blue, sunny days, and I like that the seasons are so specific and distinct. Even though it gets cold, I don’t mind. I love Canberra.

What TV show are you watching right now?

Presumed Innocent with Jake Gyllenhall. You just watch him squirm. It’s so good.

An easy one to finish – what’s your go-to coffee order?

Soy flat white from Mayfair Espresso across the lane.

Sandoochi is located at Shop 8 No Name Lane, Canberra City. Follow them on Instagram.