18 January 2010

The Demise of an Culinary Institution - A restaurant review

| imarty
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Having heard all about this establishment, I gave my wife Chairman and Yip as one of three restaurants I’d like to go to for my birthday and for her to surprise me.

Well surprised we were.

Menus pasted in dog eared art magazines, wine list in a year eight style bound, damaged folder, in landscape,? with no beer listing, with NA written in biro against non avilable wines?

Didn’t augur well for what was supposed to be one of Canberra’s premier restaurants.

Well the confit pork belly was luke warm deep fried pieces of belly with a salad of shredded iceberg lettuce, cucumber,carrot & red cabbage. It was sent back. My wife’s fishcakes were slightly better but still accompanied with the same foodcourt style salad.

The Shantung style Lamb main was deepfried (again!) lamb flap, possibly the cheapest cut of lamb possible. Tasty yes but after about 3 pieces way too much in terms of deep fried meat (after the pork).

My wife’s salmon with carrot & tomato puree was well executed but nothing special or exciting.

Service was polite but it was obvious there is no experience nor knowledge there. When questioned on some menu items, the wait staff description did not elaborate more than one ingredient beyond the menu description and when pressed we were met with a polite blank stare!

In hindsight we thought that maybe our menu choices were not necessarily appropriate nor matched but should not that also be the role of a good waiter when making a menu selection, especially when they are engaged in discussing the menu and the customer is choosing dishes to share?

Overall an extremely disappointing meal.

[ED – Without being able to speak to the rest of the meal Shantung lamb is supposed to be as you described.]

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So I guess senso does chips?

senso restaurant is open to the public, Thurs to Sat lunch and dinner!

Having started this thread and in true RA style, see it evolve into a discussion not necessarily with regard to the original topic, I thought I might contribute my opinion on other Canberra dining experiences I’ve had recently in relation to other comments.
Rama’s – Good but not great, very much same same between dishes
Jehanghir – Very good food but not great value for money, very small dishes
Grazing – Gone downhill slightly since the brother & sister team went to On Red but still very good
Rubicon – Again quite good, well executed dishes and knowledgeable, competent service
Austrian Club – Back to simple authentic food done well. Recommended
Statesman Hotel – They didn’t have the roast of the day at 12.30pm and I spent a lot of the rest of the day with an upset guts after sampling the steak burger with chips & gravy

loosebrown? loosebrown, you there???

must try this blu ginger – and get back to swinger hill (ta, helen) some time soon. someone ought to organise a riotious indian-off where we have four or five course in a travelling caravan at some of the ‘best’ places…

astrojax said :

…does anyone know of jehangir [sp?] at swinger hill – is it still going? was stunning, but has been a while…

I had takeaway from Jehangir last year and it was fantastic. I also ate there quite a few years ago when I was vego and the service was great – I didn’t know what to order so when the rest of the table settled on a meaty banquet, the waiter chose my meals for me and gave me my own little vego banquet. It was so good, I’m drooling just thinking about it…

+1 for Blu Ginger – best samosas I’ve ever had.

And for northsiders who love Indian food – Mirchi at the platypus Ngunnawal shops is really good. I would go as far as to say it’s the best Indian in the Belco/Gungahlin area.

The standard of restaurant food in canberra is abysmal compared to Melbourne. C&Y gave me the worst meal I’ve had in ages last year. It was unfortunate as it spoilt our evening. Poor food, poor service, dirty cutlery. One of the dishes was so bad we sent it back – and they still charged. They gauge when a customer won’t embarrass their guest by quibbling over a bill. 1 out of 10 for Chairman and Yip. Added to the poor food and service, the carpet was grubby, and the air was fuggy and smelly.

Generally speaking, the food served up in Canberra restaurants is of extremely poor quality and is very overpriced. Also, most restaurants in Canberra seem to have very rude staff… I have no specific comment on C&Y.

So why don’t you name a few good restaurants you’ve been to that serve extremely poor quality food? Or are you just trolling?

Troll-sniffer – I do believe you talk of “Blue Ginge”

troll-sniffer10:13 pm 20 Jan 10

I rarely jump on to threads like this with an observation but I went to an new Indian place last week and was mightily impressed. Can’t remember the name but it’s next door to Tongue and Groove in the city, in the building on the site of the old Griffin Centre. Only a dollar more than the cheaper Indian eateries with good service and top food. I’ll be going back until they lose that early urge to please!

not sure i’d rate the boathouse food as ‘excellent’, nor their prices for what you get. and i have had some poor experiences at ottoman and won’t bother going back again. lanterne rooms (with an ‘e’, people!), though, is fantastic and is quickly close to one of my faves in sunny canberra… rubicon is another. there is also a small thai place in manuka, near ali baba, whose name eludes me at the minute, always delicious food. portia’s place at kingston another gem.

rama’s is brilliant – does anyone know of jehangir [sp?] at swinger hill – is it still going? was stunning, but has been a while. sammy’s of course, is great value – ya have to have the shantung chicken! and marinetti’s is usually a good bet if you can get in. and for low rent stand-by, tak kee in woolley st dickson is my second kitchen!

i keep hearing of this ‘flint’, but it may be a while now i have astro-junior on the scene. and has anyone tried the ‘crust’ pizza place in braddon? worth a bash?

Sirocco – was going to take up your suggestion on Boathouse but they’re closed until Feb!

Shame that C&Y sound like they are sliding – amongst other things, first impressions matter and they should fix their tatty menus (it probably would have started Imarty thinking in negative terms)

Canberra isn’t really great for “hatted” venues but it does have some absolute gems:

the Asian Noodle Houses mentioned are top-notch for low-key, quality South Asian food on a budget – only had better laksa in Singapore (although they are different things).

Rama’s is fantastic for what it is: Australian Indian-Fijian food with wonderfully friendly service – but it isn’t what I would call really traditional Indian food – and on the several occassions I had eaten there I have not been able to get food spicy enough. Still very tasty.

Cozy venues with interesting menus a bit further afield include Green Herring in Fedration Square, Le Tres Bon in Bungendore and Grazing in Gundaroo(?Gunning?).

Went to the Ottoman for the first time the other week and although the food was fantastic, we booked two months in advance for an 8pm table they had made back-to-back bookings and because the 6pm booking weren’t done we waited for 25mins in the foyer. After the first 15mins we were shown a seat near the front desk and given complimentary champers (which was nice) and then after all of that the other booking didn’t leave at all and we were shown to a little side room (with a function already in it) for our meal – really poorly managed… For the same kind of atmosphere and almost the same quality food we could have gone to either Mavi at the Realm or The Harem in Kingston and paid half the amount for friendlier service

Lantern Rooms in Campbell is very good for interesting degustation (a bit more expensive but worth it)

No one ever mentions the Boathouse anymore – still a great spot with excellent food

there are my 2c…

Thanks for the responses Postalgeek, Realityskin and Grail – I’ll see what I can find.

Woody Mann-Caruso8:14 pm 19 Jan 10

The China Tea House? No thank you.

Yay, shorter wait for me.

(Seriously, though, why does anybody go to Charred Man and Yap when Civic has Sammy’s and Happy’s?)

anonymoose said :

Out of interest, what were your other two suggestions to your wife?

On another note, is there any restaurant guide website/newsletter that people would recommend? Interested in eating out a little more in this great territory of ours.

A site I find very useful and have bookmarked is http://www.outincanberra.com.au

It does searches by culinary genre and area, provides features and profiles, provides menu pdfs, and will allow you to make reservations online. And that’s just dining. It also provides info about bars, nightclubs, wineries etc as well as what’s on at any time.

youami said :

Out of curiosity what were the other 2 restaurants you had on your list? My picks, if I had to choose three, would be Axis, Ginger Room, and Senso aka ex-Flavours (although this restaurant is not public).

senso is great. it also looked fairly public when I was last there…

That is a real shame that you had a bad experience at Chirman and Yip as most times I have been there it’s been pretty enjoyable.
Interestingly enough, the same poeple (I am pretty sure) opened a new restaurant called Latern Rooms mid last year. It seems to be more seafood based than the Chairman however the atmosphere is very relaxing and not as bustling as Chairman can be on a busy night.

Another resturant, while not in the same league as the other resturants mentioned above, that is always rock solid is Cream on Bunda Street. As I said, not fine dining however the staff are always pleasant, the food is consistently good and the wine list features both Canberra and interstate wines. Anyway, it’s not whether a restaurant is fine dining or not that determines the night you have, its the people who you dine with!

Clown Killer10:09 am 19 Jan 10

I’ve yet to try Flint althoughI have heard good things.

Beau Locks said :

I also rate Rama’s, the Civic Asian Noodle House …

Rama’s is hands down the best in class in Canberra. Affordable menu, awesome service, satisfying food. Pity my partner can’t stomach hot and spicy foods =(

Dickson, Civic and Tuggeranong noodle houses are excellent – and to me are synonymous with “laksa”. The only time I’ve thought about calling someone else’s laksa better was at Phat Bois in The Forum at St Leonards in Sydney.

anonymoose said :

On another note, is there any restaurant guide website/newsletter that people would recommend? Interested in eating out a little more in this great territory of ours.

I’m a fan of the iPhone application buUuk. Neat features include a “restaurants near me” function which will display the restaurants that are geographically close to you (based on GPS location). My first impression was that it’s a very un-iPhone-ish application, but one you get used to after a while. Not only am I an iPhone snob but I’m a UI design snob too.

Eyeball In A Quart Jar Of Snot12:51 am 19 Jan 10

Woody Mann-Caruso said :

It’s the most overrated restaurant I’ve ever been to (OK, make that equal with Firestone). Half as good as The China Tea House in Erindale and twice as expensive. Seems to be popular with the crowd who think Zefferelli’s is haute cuisine.

The China Tea House?

No thank you.

Some scorching satire here. I’d be interested in what other people rate. I ate recently at Flint, and reckon it’s the best food I’ve ever had in Canberra. Not so much that the cuisine was better than, say, Courgette or Rubicon, but that it had a much more mellow and unpretentious vibe to go with the wicked food. I also rate Rama’s, the Civic Asian Noodle House, Artespresso, and Ottoman.

anonymoose said :

Out of interest, what were your other two suggestions to your wife?

On another note, is there any restaurant guide website/newsletter that people would recommend? Interested in eating out a little more in this great territory of ours.

http://yourrestaurants.com.au/

Clown Killer10:39 pm 18 Jan 10

Everyone’s entitled to an opinion, but I must admit I was not surprised by imarty’s comments. I admit I haven’t eaten at the Chairman and Yip for six months or so, but every time I have the service has been consistently mediocre: indifferent, unknowledgeable and yet somehow rude. The food struggles to reach edibility. The only saving grace is that the menu doesn’t change – it means that they’re not fcuking up new dishes. Given that so many seem to revel in Chairman &Yip ’s inadequacy, I should be grateful that these same folk aren’t cluttering up the half decent restaurants around town. Like most Australian cities, Canberra’s not blessed with too many really flash eateries, but The Chairman and Yip definitely doesn’t rate as anywhere close to almost near half decent.

Out of interest, what were your other two suggestions to your wife?

On another note, is there any restaurant guide website/newsletter that people would recommend? Interested in eating out a little more in this great territory of ours.

Everyone’s entitled to an opinion, but I must admit I was surprised by imarty’s comments. I admit I haven’t eaten at C+Y for six months or so, but every time I have the service has been consistently solid: unobtrusive and yet attentive. The food is fantastic, too. The only gripe I have is that the menu doesn’t change. Given it’s so good, tho, I don’t really care. Canberra’s certainly not blessed with too many really flash eateries, but for my money C+Y is definitely up there.

Hands up, didn’t kow Shantung lamb was breast/flap but did know it was deep fried. Whilst lamb flap is an inherently fatty cut, it can be trimmed to significantly reduce the fat content. This wasn’t. Apart from that delicious.
My point was that I didn’t know the confit pork belly was going to be deep fried. I’ve tried confit pork belly all over the country at many hatted restaurants including Quay where Peter Gilmore was one of, if not the first to put this style of pork belly on a menu. This was not confit, this was deep fried belly, evident by over cooking resulting in very dry and chewy edges. A restaurant of this supposed calibre would have gently guided me away from two deep fried dishes, esepcially when I was tossing up over the Chairman’s Lamb Curry and the Shantung which is when I asked the wait staff some questions t assist me with my decision.

Yep, also had iceberg lettuce at a fine dining establishments but this was the same “accompaniment” for both entrees.

With regards to the luke warm entree, my first thought was this isn’t right, too ccol to be warm and you don’t serve cool deep fried anything! Anyway, I asked the waiter (the most senior one who’s attention I got first) and he assured me that most certainly it was not supposed to be warm. He whisked it away and another at a much warmer temperature was returned. Pity he didn’t take our order.

To put some perspective on this review, I’ve worked in the food industry for 27 years with experience dining in a large percentage of Australia’s hatted restaurants both for business and pleasure. My wife has similar experience.

The other two restaurants were Watermark and On Red. We did Ginger Room last year and Axis several times, I wanted somewhere not yet tried.

Loosebrown, please point out where I was spiteful???

sexynotsmart7:18 pm 18 Jan 10

I’ve been to C&Y over 2 dozen times over the last decade. Every time there’s a conference or whole-of-government meeting some free-thinking individual feels obliged to book a dinner there.

IMHO your experience was NOT extra-ordinary. The food is routinely humdrum (but only occassionally bad), the prices stupendous, the service haphazard…

Which begs the question of why does it consistently rank in ‘Best Restaurant’ lists?

My guess is that people are lazy and vote out of habit. They may not have been to the place since the word ‘GST’ was added to the menus. C&Y may have been something very special when it first opened, but not now.

Woody Mann-Caruso7:11 pm 18 Jan 10

It’s the most overrated restaurant I’ve ever been to (OK, make that equal with Firestone). Half as good as The China Tea House in Erindale and twice as expensive. Seems to be popular with the crowd who think Zefferelli’s is haute cuisine.

I completely agree Imarty. I think Chairman and Yip is so overrated. I cringe when my friends want to go there. I’ve been there on several occasions and I’ve hated the experience. Definetly overpriced for what it is.

as for the relationship between c&y and lanterne rooms at campbell, i believe the chefs at the latter were able to use the c&y kitchens to work on their menu prior to their opening. not sure what previous relationship existed, but i don’t believe there was any strong link, like as a previous chef or partner, etc…

agree that lanterne rooms is a great place, but my expereinces of c&y differ significantly from the OP – agree with grundy; let the restaurant know and maybe they will have a response that draws you back for a second dib – this time try the duck pancakes!

st said :

I think people should be allowed to express their views about and experiences at restaurants. I personally also didn’t find C&Y that special.

I agree. Whilst I think this review may be somewhat superficial I do believe RA is the perfect place to put up comments and experiences, especially when not everyone can use BuuK becuase not everyone has submitted to the iPhone lol. In fact, I belong to a gathering of people who dine regularly and then privately rate and review our experiences. I am also a member of an organisation that dines on a monthly basis and we publicly rate the food at the table after each course. All good fun but also brings word-of-mouth to a new level.

The two reviews of Chairman and Yip restaurant in “buUuk“* both come to the same conclusion as imarty, namely that it’s overpriced for what it is.

I’d suggest that the “dog eared” menus etc. are supposed to be props supporting the style that the restaurant was originally set up for.

Central Cafe – unbeatable.

Sounds to me like you didn’t know what Shantung Lamb was and that you and your wife have a presumption that premier restaurants don’t serve deep-fried dishes nor serve common foodstuffs like iceberg lettuce? Well, of course I didn’t dine with you that night but it sounds to me that you had different expectations to what was delivered but your expectations were a bit ignorant of Canberra dining. But of course as ‘grundy’ suggests, if you felt the experience was as bad as you make out then complain. A restaurant such as C&Y values feedback. As for menus themselves, I think it adds character but meh. As for the entree it sounds to me that it was supposed to be warm because it was on a bed of salad?!

Try Sydney dining and see how much you get for your money!

Out of curiosity what were the other 2 restaurants you had on your list? My picks, if I had to choose three, would be Axis, Ginger Room, and Senso aka ex-Flavours (although this restaurant is not public). IMHO, give C&Y another go for a second-opinion. Canberra market is surprisingly in low supply for quality waitstaff and somelliers so on some days you just get a poor lot, luck of the draw.

Clown Killer12:16 pm 18 Jan 10

This matches my experience of Chairman & Yip over three or four visits in the last 10 years.

The reality is that it’s little more than a fairly mediocre Asian restaurant with pretentions of something special.

These guys must have a supply of tattered menus because they’ve been like that as long as I can remember – sure, it’s only a menu but you’ve got to wonder about the state of the kitchen if they can’t even keep a menu clean. Don’t look too closely at the upholstery on the seats either.

If you were after top-shelf Asian inspired food you’d be better off heading to the Lantern Room in Campbell. I’m lead to believe that there’s some connection between the two … which if true, just begs the question – how could the Lantern Room get it so right when the Chairman and Yip gets it so (very, very) wrong?

I think people should be allowed to express their views about and experiences at restaurants. I personally also didn’t find C&Y that special.

Wow, that’s really disappointing! I’ve never eaten there, but have always meant to.

Got to agree with Ed. in that the Shantung lamb sounds spot-on. Should be brisket slow-cooked to tenderise, then deep-fried crisp, served on shredded lettuce/cucumber and finally doused in vinegary Shantung sauce. It’s a rich, fatty and very “Lamby” dish.

I’d suggest another Canberra Chinese institution (14 years): Portia’s Place to see if it’s The Chairman’s preparation or the dish itself you don’t like. Their service I’d describe as “casual silver-service” as many dishes like duck pancakes are finished at the table and served to your plate.

(I have no interest or association with either restaurant)

You must have gone on a bad night.

Every visit to C&Y lately has been amazing.
Good service, amazing food and I walk out satisfied and completely full.

Friends and family have always had the same experience as I have and a workmate just went last week and was also blown away with the great food and decent service.

Maybe you should provide feedback to the restaurant so they can see who was working when you were there and see if there is anything they can do to improve it.

RE: the menus,
They are getting on a bit, but who cares! 😛

An amazingly superficial and spiteful review.

I have eaten at C&Y many times – it is a superb restaurant. It’s place at the top of the restaurant ladder in Canberra is well earned. The food is wonderful and the service is comprehensive yet unobtrusive.

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