Water's Edge sets high bar with eye-catching dishes that excite the tastebuds

The first thing we notice when taking our seats at the Water’s Edge by Lake Burley Griffin is the distinctive cutlery. Elegant with a modernist twist, these steel works of art set the tone for the entire restaurant.

Its fine dining reputation precedes us, so we are keen to find out if the place is all it is stacked up to be. I have been here before, only so long ago under a different regime that it does not count.

To cut to the chase, it does not disappoint. From the quiet background tinkle of piano, to the unobtrusive but informative service to the instant retreat from the bustle of walkers and runners showing off their Christmas lycra along the lakefront, this is a perfect platform for adventurous executive chef and owner Avtar Singh to add his touch of spice to a French-style line-up.

Flexibility is also on show. The menu is clearly marked for dietary preferences and the waitress helps us navigate it, advising how the kitchen could accommodate our needs.

And if you are thinking that fine dining may mean fine portions, think again. It’s best to have a light lunch ahead of an evening booking.

In fact, there are quite a few surprises along the way. We had already explored the menu, which is not long but covers enough territory, and decided on most of the $95 three-course option.

We certainly weren’t expecting an amuse bouche – literally ‘amuse the mouth’ – to get us started – a vibrant orange offering of two zesty capsicum flavoured polenta cubes topped with tofu cream with shot glasses of tomato gazpacho.

This was followed by a slice of tasty gluten free bread and a small bowl of peppery olive oil to keep us interested ahead of our entrees.

It was my partner’s birthday so French bubbles (Andre Delorme Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Blanc de Blancs from Burgundy) are already in play. The combination puts us decidely in the mood.

I wasn’t planning to but I opt for an all-poultry affair – the spatchcock entree and duck main. The White Pyrenees lamb back strap with potato galette, mashed peas, black garlic, salt bush had been firmly in my sights – and I have to admit the aromas wafting across from the neighbouring table nearly pulled me back in – but, as Darryl Kerrigan would say, it’s what he’s done with the duck that couldn’t be resisted.

My partner goes for the blue swimmer crab entree and the wild mushroom risotto for the main. We also order a plate of crisp green beans and roast almond flakes that turn out to be more than we could eat.

First the spatchcock – a generous leg and thigh portion marinated in achiote, a peppery Carribean and Mexican spice, that comes with charred gem lettuce and a pinky native pepper berry mayonnaise.

I accept the matched wine, a fresh 2021 Risky Business Pinot Noir Rose from Mt Barker in Western Australia – more pink – and perfect for warm summer evenings and dancing with the deliciously spicy spatchcock and mayo.

This one set a high bar for the main.

What excited me about the duck was the intriguing summery combination of ingredients – honey spiced Hawkesbury duck breast with macadamia puree, stone fruit, and most interestingly, coffee jus.

Two large slivers of crispy skinned pink duck breast sit in a shallow pool of jus surrounded by chunks of nectarine, peach and plum and flanked by two dollops of macadamia puree. A touch of green on top rounds out the scene.

In fact, Singh obviously loves to play with colour because every course is fetching to the eye and evocative of the season.

The star is the coffee jus – and I know some will argue everything goes better with coffee. But it was my first time to enjoy the tender, gamey, almost smoky, flavour of the duck joined with that seductive flavour.

The only flaw was that bane of summer fruit lovers – the not quite ripe nectarine, which let down the team a smidge.

Pinot noir is usually my go-to for duck but again I took the menu’s advice, and was not disappointed with a white – the crisp, dry 2022 Nugan Estate Frasca’s Lane Pinot Grigio that offered a lighter touch than the red.

The birthday girl’s blue swimmer crab comes as a moulded round with pepper berries, pickle apple, grapes and butter milk sauce, topped with seaweed and dill – fresh, light and delicate.

The matching wine was a 2020 Cicada Green Grocer Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough in New Zealand but she opts for something a bit closer to home, the 2016 Chalkers Crossing Riesling from the Hilltops region, which carries her through to the main.

The risotto – again a generous portion – boasts an array of mushroom varieties and fermented black garlic, rhubarb and hazel nuts. The dairy component had been toned down on request and shaved parmesan delivered on the side but this remains quite a rich dish, earthy and redolent of the forest floor.

By this time we welcome a little break in the traffic to ready for dessert. They are able to offer a dairy free alternative for me – frangipane – essentially an almond meal cake – and passionfruit sorbet, while my partner chooses the baked meringue with fresh berries, lime cream, passion fruit coulis, and hazelnut crumb.

But first for the final surprise of the night – a tangy lemon sorbet to cleanse the palette.

The menu suggests matching dessert wines but we settle for digestive peppermint and lemongrass and ginger teas.

The frangipane crumbled somewhat but the almond flavour teams up with the sharp passionfruit for one last summer fling, while the meringue is a beautifully presented light, breezy and resfreshingly delicious note to end on.

This was a satisfying and exciting exploration of seasonal flavours in a relaxed setting sealed off from the travails of the world.

The Water’s Edge showed why it is considered one of Canberra’s finest restaurants. Nine out of 10.

Water’s Edge Restaurant is located at Commonwealth Place, 40 Parkes Place, Parkes. It also has dining domes outside for a special experience. They are open for lunch and dinner from Wednesday to Sunday. Reservations essential. Follow Water’s Edge on Facebook or Instagram, and visit their website to book.