I didn’t know at the time, but this was the last meal I would eat at Miss Van’s, just last week. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
“There is no easy way to say goodbye.”
Like many others, I was shocked to see this post from Andrew Duong on social media last night (28 October) announcing the immediate closure of his restaurant, Miss Van’s.
The South East Asian-Australian restaurant was one of my favourites in Canberra – a chronically underrated gem. I had lunch there last week and covered the sold-out event with industry legend Tony Tan, hosted at Miss Van’s just a few days ago.
It’s a prescient reminder that the hospitality industry is in a really tight spot at the moment, and even favourite restaurants that might appear from the outside to be flourishing are all doing it tough.
Andrew Duong expanded on the issues faced in his announcement: “The industry in Canberra (and all of Australia) is currently at a low point – it is harder than ever to sustain a restaurant; rising costs, staff shortages and the cost-of-living has compounded a difficult outlook into an impossible situation.
“This past year has been a struggle – mentally, physically and financially. I have tried my hardest to get through the Canberra winter lull, hoping for a busier finish to the year, but unfortunately, it is no longer viable to keep the doors open.”
Miss Van’s owner, Andrew Duong. Photo: Rohan Thompson, Pew Pew Studio.
Miss Van’s follows in the wake of other high-profile closures like XO, Temporada and Aubergine. Those restaurants were able to offer their patrons extended notice to visit for one last meal, but the decision to close Miss Van’s seems to have happened very fast.
Canberra’s hospitality scene is rapidly being populated with big-name interstate owners. On the one hand, it is exciting to see the recognition of Canberra’s food culture, but it comes with the risk of shiny, new, celebrity-backed ventures taking over the locals who put in the hard work to put Canberra on the map in the first place.
In my days as a chef, and now in my role as a food writer, I have the privilege of getting to know Canberra’s chefs and restauranteurs, and the overwhelming message I’ve been hearing for the past few years is how tough it is out there right now.
Miss Van’s on Marcus Clarke St. Photo: Rohan Thompson, Pew Pew Studio
Miss Van’s opened during a complicated time of COVID restrictions, battled a bureaucratic nightmare to get their liquor licence and was often overlooked by prestigious awards and accolades despite the exceptional quality of food and service.
I was privileged to have some frank conversations with Andrew over the years about a variety of issues faced by those in the industry. I also know how well-respected he is by many others working in restaurants, cafes and bars. This loss will be felt across Canberra’s hospitality industry.
Despite the loss and sadness, Andrew Duong was thankful: “Opening Miss Van’s has fulfilled a lifelong dream of mine. Seeing how the Canberra community has embraced this restaurant has been truly heartwarming and I will always cherish the memories made here.
“Thank you, from the bottom of my heart.”
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