Long lunches among famous faces: The National Portrait Gallery cafe isn’t just for tourists

It’s easy as a Canberran to dismiss a national attraction lobby cafe. They’ve become a part of the fabric of who we are as Canberrans, and sometimes we bypass them to follow the latest trends.

A recent visit to the Portrait Cafe located in the lobby of the National Portrait Gallery was a reminder that good food enjoyed in world-class architecture is not just for tourists – it’s for Canberrans, too.

When it comes to notable architecture in the nation’s capital, little happens without a design competition. The National Portrait Gallery is no exception, and although we’re here for the food, it’s hard to ignore the surroundings.

Opened in 2008, the gallery was conceived by the winner of an open international design competition, architect firm Johnson Pilton Walker. It was designed to allow the positive effects of natural sunlight to create an environment conducive to the serious examination and study of art.

While I appreciate the art housed within the monumental confines of the gallery, my focus as a food writer tends to be a serious examination and study of food. Short of asking principal architect Richard Johnson if he had foreseen the benefits of natural light on the dining experience, one can assume he did and that the natural light-filled cafe and terrace were all part of his competition-winning design.

I had attended the cafe that day armed with the most important accessories to test out a weekday long lunch – the girls. One is a self-proclaimed steak sandwich critic, known for travelling the countryside in search of the best steak sandwiches Australia has to offer. The other is a well-known personality of Canberra’s food truck scene who has a palate for the delicious.

Armed with the menu, a need for caffeine and some pre-prepared empty stomachs, we plotted out a strategic attack of the dishes on offer to ensure that a selection of food was tasted from across the menu.

The menu itself is well-balanced. The six sections encompass light bites, brunches and more substantial made-to-order lunches that include healthy choices, filling meals and treat-yourself items.

The drinks menu spans the caffeinated to the boozy, ideal for a quick refreshment or a longer sitting to enjoy the view from the expansive terrace. At $10 a glass, the wines, predominantly from Mudgee, make for a reasonable midday tipple and the three cocktails on offer, gin and tonic, an Aperol spritz, and a bloody mary, are a solid set of classics worthy of a lazy afternoon.

Our order at the counter was taken with military precision; not even my wit and charm could squeeze a smile from the gentleman on duty. Despite this, the efficiency with which the order was taken was appropriate when balanced against the volume of people ordering, eating and moving through the space, requiring a level of concentration to execute prompt service, and that’s exactly what we received.

The meals arrived in what seemed like minutes and the spread that sat before us was beautifully plated, the garnishes were vibrant and fresh and the portions were large.

I took on the ubiquitous cafe dish, avo on toast.

With one on almost every menu across the capital, it seemed a fair place to start to see where the Portrait Cafe fits within the cafe scene. The bread was mercifully easy to cut, no battling with thick toasted sourdough that won’t yield. The avo was, as expected, smashed, creamy and in decent enough quantity.

The winner for me were the cherry tomatoes that appeared to have been marinated in herbs. The feta brought a tart pop, and the addition of some seeds was a nice earthy touch. And at $6 extra, the smoked salmon was a solid side.

Our steak sandwich aficionado was satisfied with the Portrait Cafe’s rendition of the dish. The soft ciabatta was noteworthy. The generous size of the sandwich and large portion of chips fitted the higher price point of the sandwich at $28. The meat was exceptionally tender, and the Cafe de Mayo butter left an impression.

Our last main dish was the chef’s poke bowl, which was presented as a delectable rainbow. At $16, the spread of pickled radish, seaweed, edamame, avocado, crispy shallots, warm rice and poke dressing was good value, and for an additional $6, the smoked trout bulked out the meal.

Often in cafes, a series of small errors and mistimings can tarnish the experience. Here, it was a series of small touches, like the offer to infuse the milk in the chai tea, the smart uniforms and the prompt delivery of the food that came together to make for a seamless dining experience. And if you get out of the cafe without buying something in the carefully curated bookstore at the entrance, you’re doing better than me.

The Portrait Cafe is located within the National Portrait Gallery. It’s open Monday to Friday from 8:30 am until 4:30 pm. and Saturday and Sunday from 9 am until 4:30 pm.